F Information on Engine Oil Consumption Guidelines Jan 13, 2009 Subject Information on Engine Oil Consumption Guidelines Models 2009 and Prior GM.Engines General. Hope Its A Life Sentence Denzel Shopping Guide Judson Supercharger The Ideal Cylinder Size Would You Believe Stock 1500 100 bhp Fix things that need fixing on your engine with it out of the car.Having StabiliTrak problems with your GMC, Buick, Chevrolet or Cadillac Get free Lemon Law help.Read about your rights.Building an Air Cooled VW engine, non Lego Toy Style.An air cooled VW engine rotates about 1.If thats too many for you, stop reading.If its not, keep reading.This is how you build a bulletproof, complete, reliable air cooled Volkswagen engine so when youre done, you can drive it anywhere you want, as far you want no funny noises, starts instantly every time, no exhaust leaks, no pushing it outta the way, doesnt catch fire, no tow trucks, no motel rooms, no pulling the engine in a parking lot to change the clutch or to try and put the flywheel back on, no oil leaks, no gas leaks, no fumes, no backfiring, nice heater, quiet, it purrs no nothin.In other words, it goes anywhere and comes back without a problem.But you cant skip over anything if you want success, you need to read it all to understand what youre doing, why youre doing it, what works and what makes sense and its far from simple straightforward mechanical assembly that you may have been led to believe.Ill do my best to show you how and its all here.And this isnt step by step and you need to read it all, regardless of vehicle to get it all.Note. If you have a nut anywhere on the exhaust system or anywhere for that matter but particularly at the cylinder head, and you have a nut where it seems its so tight youre afraid it is going to break a stud and it just wont move, STOP The last thing you want to do is break any exhaust stud off in the head.You may never be able to fix it and end up needing a NEW HEAD simply because of one broken stud.So you may end up spending a couple days and a few hundred dollars to put ONE NUT ON.Dont break a stud So, whenever in doubt, rather than risking a broken stud, heat the nut up red hot with a torch.It will likely come right off.This simple step can you save your hours and hours of work and plenty of.Heat can save you a lot of time and money.Usually when something wont turn, it means something is too tight.Making the respective hole in the nut bigger usually solves this problem and heat will do it.BMW-740/740_Pics/Exterior/Maintenance/Oil-Change_Pump-Bolts_Gasket/Oil-Change-&-Oil-Pan-Gasket_3.jpg' alt='How To Fix A Cracked Engine Sump Plug' title='How To Fix A Cracked Engine Sump Plug' />This even works on stubborn plugs in carburetors.Just use a real light flame and make sure its dry.Removing the Engine.Im not going to go into detail here regarding removing the engine.Its not that hard but heres the some helpful hints If it runs, drive it around and warm it up to thin the oil a bit for draining.Have a water hose within reach with some kind of onoff nozzle and leave the faucet on or have a fire extinguisher that you know works, regardless of the inspection date on it.Test it first even if its brand new.Water is preferable to a fire extinguisher.Fire retardant is corrosive and makes a real mess.Water is clean and effective.Realize, its very easy to drop a wrench in a small pool of gas and cause a spark and start a fire.Disconnect the battery a loose wire can cause a spark and thus start a fire.Drain the oil via the plug if you have one.No reason to remove plate and screen now for this unless you have no drain plug.Disconnect wires and fuel hoses and plug hoses.Fuel injected vehicles have a hose on each side of the engine.Type 4 buses and Vanagons have a rather thick wire from the alternator to the starter dont forget that one.Dont forget the plug to the computer near the battery on fuel injected buses.Disconnect the shift rod and pull the coupling out of the way on Vanagons and all buses from 1.Vanagon the transmission housing.Pull accelerator cable completely away from engine and tuck it somewhere underneath to keep it outta the way.For type 4 buses, remove the entire exhaust system before removing the engine but first remove the muffler then unbolt the passenger or drivers side header from its flange then remove the entire exhaust in two pieces before you remove the engine.You may need to do this on the other side too but leave the rest of the exhaust in one piece for inspection later.These engines are heavy, wide, and awkward.Its a lot easier to handle with the exhaust removed and its considerably lighter, especially on fuel injected vehicles.For buses from 1.When re installing the engine, put these bolts back in right after you attach the 4 bolts that hold the rear hangar to the frame and after the engine is bolted to the trans.Do not unbolt the brackets from the frame for the rear crossmember as it says in the Bentley book, unbolt the bolts that hold the crossmember to these brackets.These bolts are oriented horizontally.You may want to remove the bumper on any bus older than 7.Aside from that, its pretty easy.Taking it Apart. Take the flywheel off first with the clutch.Its easiest to do it right away when the engine is still heavy to resist your effort on the long breaker bar youre going to need unless you have access to an impact wrench.When taking off the heads, particularly on type 4 engines, you may find the upper head nuts so tight that when attempting to turn the nut, the whole stud wants to come out of the case.Use oxy acetylene and heat the nuts theyll likely come off.A butane torch may work or at least help.When disassembling the case, make sure you dont miss any nuts because theyre so covered with glop you cant see them.The two studs that pinch the front cam bearings and cam plug on type 1 engines are often covered and if you miss them and try to force the case halve apart, you can break the case and youll need to find another one.For type 4 engines, never remove this bolt until youve remove the sump plate securing nut.Dont forget this step or you can break the case The bolt in the above photo is unique theres only one like it in on the whole car.Its 7. 7 millimeters long including the head and 7.Thread is 8 x 1. 2.Notice how the non threaded part of this bolt is bigger than the threaded part.This wider part is to provide support for the oil pickup tube.Any bolt the with the proper length and proper thread pattern will work but this is the right bolt If you do not have this bolt, its best to try and find a used one.Thing is, theres only one per bus on this planet.If you cant find one, try to find a used bolt that is the correct length that was installed at some time in the past on a vehicle as new or from any new car dealer.Most likely, a dealer will sell you a bolt sourced from the factory and it wont be junk.If you just buy a bolt at Home Depot junk or Fastenal junk or anywhere like that, itll be Chinese and real soft and will bend easily when tightening it and this can break the case.This is not me being anal this is reality.This is the pivot bolt for the alternator for 7.Its almost exactly the same dimensions as the proper bolt for the type 4 oil pickup tube.Its the best thing to use if you dont have the right bolt for the pickup tube.A bit of creative filing will be necessary but its the next best thing to the real thing and its a German bolt so you know its strong.Assembly. The starting point here for assembly is the everything is all apart.Clean or not, it can all be evaluated.We start with valuable information regarding aftermarket aluminum cases.Heres a photo of a stock case And heres an aftermarket aluminum case The aluminum case only comes with the vent hole shown in the stock case.Theres no lower drain other than a small slot in the base of the web that divides the crank and cam gear area from the rest of the case.When an aluminum case is assembled without drilling these drain hole, this area has no way to drain other than the small slot and the vent, which is too high for proper drainage.Realize also that the crank gear and the cam gear act like a giant oil pump.Without an upper vent hole and lower drain holes, this area fills with oil and the pressure created by spinning cam and crank gears just like the oil pump cause oil to leak past the oil return threads on the crank pulley and even a sand seal will not be an effective repair.If you drill the two holes shown in the picture, you will have no leakage here with either the stock pulley or a sand seal pulley.Except you may have a leak with a stock pulley you may have leak develop here over time.To fix youll have to use a sand seal and a sand seal pulley to match.Theres two ways to fix this with a seal designed to install without machining and one that requires machining.The no machine type of seal can begin rotating in the bore over time but Ive gone 4.Pelican Technical Article Common Boxster Engine Problems and Failures. Lego Pirates Of The Caribbean Pc Patch there. This article is one in a series that have been released in conjunction with Waynes new book, 1.Performance Projects for Your Porsche Boxster.The book contains 3.With more than 9.Boxster owners collection.The book is currently available and in stock now.See The Official Book Website for more details.CLICK HERE FOR PARTS FOR THIS ARTICLEUsing the expertise gained from years of designing and building engines, Porsche developed what is known as the M9.Boxster in 1. 99.The horizontally opposed engine was developed with a throwback to the traditionally air cooled motors, having kept the opposing cylinder or boxer layout.The engine was designed from the outset with the goal of providing a common platform for both the Boxster and the upcoming Porsche Carrera.The motor was indeed scalable, encompassing a displacement that ranged from 2.The M9. 6 and subsequent similar M9.Porsche over the 1.Its not uncommon to find a car listed for sale with new factory engine recently installed in the advertisement.No one but Porsche knows exactly how many engines were replaced under its recently discontinued engine exchange program.However, simply swapping out a broken engine for another one does not address known weaknesses in the engine due to design deficiencies.The purpose of this project is to identify some of the problem areas of the engine and offer up solutions on how to fix andor prevent any damage from happening to your engine.Rear Main Seal Leaks When the M9.RMS leaks. While some of the RMS problems were probably actually intermediate shaft cover leaks see next section, there were definitely some problems with the seals on the early cars.For the most part this was a cosmetic issue, as the leaks did not tend to affect performance, unless they became so severe that they began to affect the proper operation of the clutch.But many engines were torn apart andor replaced by Porsche under warranty due to this problem because when you pay 7.Its not really 1.One cause may possibly be the fact that the crankshaft has insufficient support on the rear end.It also may be caused by the fact that the crankshaft carrier support is only pinned minimally in one plane to the outer case.This can lead to shuffling of the carrier shuffle pinning the crankshaft carrier as is commonly done when prepping an early 9.The seal has been updated to a 9.Cayenne style part number since the engine was originally introduced, and for the most part the engines no longer leak from this area when this new and improved seal is installed.If you find that your engine is leaking from the rear main seal also known as the flywheel seal, then simply install a new one while adding a little bit of Curil T sealant to help keep it dry see Photo 1.Pelican Technical Article Clutch Replacement.Intermediate Shaft Bearing Failures The intermediate shaft bearing is probably the most troublesome of all of the M9.M9. 7 engine problems.The intermediate shaft bearing IMS bearing, supports the intermediate shaft on the flywheel end of the motor.Porsche designed these motors using a sealed ball bearing that is pressed into the intermediate shaft.These types of bearings are typically used in devices like copy machines and other machinery used in dry conditions.In theory, the area where Porsche designed the bearing to sit is supposed to be dry.However, after years of use within the engine, it would appear that oil and contaminants from the engine seep past the bearing seal, wash out the original lubricant and become trapped inside.The result is that the bearing now operates in a less than ideal environment and begins to wear prematurely.When the bearing wears out, the timing chains on the engine may disengage, and the engine will quickly self destruct.When the bearing does fail, foreign object debris from the bearing circulates throughout the engine, causing further damage to other areas in the engine.On the early cars, Porsche also used a center bolt to secure the IMS bearing that was too weak and sometimes snapped.If this bolt breaks, then the intermediate shaft begins to float around in the bottom of the engine, and you can soon experience catastrophic engine failure.This area is also highly prone to leaks.The seal around the intermediate shaft cover can leak, and it has since been updated and redesigned to prevent leakage.In addition, the three bolts that hold the intermediate shaft cover are through holes which exit into the cavity of the engine case.You must coat these bolts when reinstalling them in order to prevent oil from leaking out through the bolt holes.In general, if this area is leaking, it may indeed be a sign that your intermediate shaft is failing and you should inspect it immediately.The good news is that the IMS bearing problems are all fixable, thanks in part to a retrofit kit that can be installed with the engine still in the car.See Project 1. 4 for full instructions on how to update your engine.Cylinder Liner Cracks In an effort to reduce costs during production, Porsche utilized a type of insert mold casting process to directly incorporate Lokasil cylinder liners into the case.While this is a neat way to reduce the total number of parts used in the engine, this design basically casts a wearable part into the engine case.There is no factory replacement for the liners when they wear, the factory expects you to buy a new engine case.In addition, the design of the cylinder liners allows them to float within an area filled with coolant.Excess vibration and twisting from the normal operation of the engine appears to be causing some cracking in these liners, resulting in a small chunk of the liner breaking off.This D chunk problem seems to ironically occur mostly in gently driven cars.Boxsters that are driven hard at the track or on the street do not tend to see this type of damage.At least with respect to the track cars, one theory is that these cars tend to have their oil changed much more often.The problem affects mostly the 2.Carrera 3. 4 engines the 3.Boxster S engine appears to be unaffected because it has thicker cylinder walls than the 3.When this failure happens, you will see oil and coolant begin to mix together, or a slight unexplained coolant loss.If your engine experiences this failure, it can be rebuilt using LN Engineerings Nickasil liners installed.They take your old case, machine out the cracked or damaged Lokasil liners and install an aluminum Nickies insert which is stronger and more reliable than the factory cast in liner.In addition, with the installation of the liners its fairly easy to increase the bore of the cylinders which translates into increased displacement and more horsepower.If you go this route, you will also need to use some aftermarket pistons and perhaps update the software in your DME to accommodate the larger displacement.Engine Casting Porosity As mentioned in the previous section, Porsche used a new cost effective method to cast in most of the oil and water cooling passages directly into the engine case.This reduced the total part count for the engine, and also helped to reduce assembly time and production cost.Unfortunately, the advanced casting technique seems to have led to a number of engine cases experiencing what has been called engine porosity.There is not a lot of information available on this problem, but it seems to be related to problems with the initial casting process.In some cases, there appeared to have been a leak through the internal crank case walls.The process of pouring the molten aluminum must be tightly controlled, otherwise pockets of air forming in the aluminum may result.Most of the time, post casting inspections will reveal these flaws, but apparently some were still manufactured into running engines.The result is that oil and water became mixed within these engines.This resulted in coolant being found within the oil turning it a milky brown color, or oil being found inside the coolant tank.The expansion and contraction of the engine due to the heat of normal operation can expose this problem as well.I have also heard of engines that simply weeped a slow bead of oil right through the walls of the engine case when running.Unfortunately, theres nothing that can be done to fix this problem, short of scraping the engine.
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